Jump on them quick...3 are already gone 

Wow those are great! I have a vaccuformer as well if you need anything.

Hey,

I hope to bringing some innovative parts for the racing crowd to market in the future. First up is an all carbon fiber canopy/turtle deck assembly. These work great if you are turning a Mustang into Strega/VooDoo/Dago Red/Stiletto etc. Sized for the foamy warbrids and the slightly larger 1/12 scale class. They can also be used as a sleek canopy for other models too.

$10 ea. I have several in stock.

Yep Airkill products. Unfortunately they are discontinued. They still pop up on Ebay now and again. Steve has a Sea Fury at the store and Phil Heidt has a Hurricane he may part with. They are definately a builders kit, but fly very well when done. Steve and I have had several.

Another shot inside the cowl.

There is actually more than appears in the photo. The OS .30 is quite tall and makes look big. Infact there is quite a bit of room.

Awesome! If I can be of any help......you know where to find me. I should have Conquest 1 done inside a month. Here it is "in the bones".

Hey,

The racing seems to be here to stay with strong interest in both electric classes. Steve Cole and I have been flying 1/12 Scale WWII glow models for several years. They are a great deal of fun, fly very well and are inexpensive.

We got to thinking of reviving a glow racing class with something other than Quickies. 1/12 scale seems the natural choice. There is a huge variety of ARF's & kits available keeping with our WWII theme we already have going.

To keeps the speeds down and keep the racing more compatible with our field, Steve had the great idea of using a .30 4 stroke and making it a 3 pylon course. Below is a rough idea of rules:

Airframe
The model must be scale replica of a pursuit, fighter, or attack aircraft produced or in service
between 1935 and 1955. For the purpose of this contest, an aircraft shall be considered a pursuit, fighter, or attack aircraft if its missions routinely involved, or its designer intended any of the following:
a) interception of enemy aircraft;
b) high-speed ground or sea attack;
c) dogfighting;
d) long- and short-range escort.
The aircraft must have been originally designed to have had onboard guns installed. Aircraft that had guns
mounted for defensive purposes only shall not qualify as pursuit, fighter, or attack aircraft.

Aircraft must resemble their full-scale counterparts, and be 1/12th scale +/- 5%.

All deviations from scale outline must be within five (5) percent of each other and within five (5) percent of scale,
and retain scale shape and proportions. For example, scaling a model’s wingspan up 5% and the fuselage down
5% is not allowed. The deviations shall all be in the same direction (plus or minus); it is not permissible to scale
some elements up and others down. Fuselages must be fully built, no profiles allowed. Landing gear not required.

This makes it possible for twins to also compete. Since we have a scale % rule and not a wingspan limit, twins become a possibility!

Engine

Only a .30 4 stroke(s) will be allowed. (We are considering limiting it to O.S., Magnum & possibly Saito) Engines must remain unmodified.

The Only exceptions are:
Glowplug of choice
Muffler may be removed
Any prop
Any fuel



Here are some planes so you can see what is available:
 
ARF's
 
Great Planes...looks like they have some new ones!
 
Spit http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRPX9&P=0
Mustang http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJY9&P=0
P-47 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVVG5&P=0
P-40 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSRP9&P=0
Corsair http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJY8&P=0
Me-109 http://www.globalhobby.com/public/modeltech/gallery/123610.asp

Kits

http://houseofbalsa.com/store/store-kits.html?sid=0001Gb6btXzySe0hXc3r3S5
http://www.kamodels.com/kitindex.htm
http://www.jkaerotech.com/custom.em?pid=851167
http://www.fighteraces.co.uk/  (click on small scale kits I like the Ki-61!!)

Plans for you scratchbuilders

http://www.rccombat.com/sections/manufacturers/manufacturers.htm

There are many others, I have just scratched the surface here.


What do you guys think? How many of you would be willing to give it a shot?

I've been flying my Aeroworks Extra 260 regularly in the park next to and someties out in front of my house. Anyone up for a night sortie?

Great question Patrick. I wasn't going to let the cat out of the bag about repitching props, but since you asked, I let on a little. 

Props can be repitched a number of ways. The most common is like you pointed out,  heat and twist. This works for many props like the Graupner CAM series, Master Airscrew, GWS etc. Unfortunately this doesn't work for APC (stranded resin construction) or wood props for obvious reasons.

APC and wood props can be repitched with other methods however. To do any correctly, a pitch guage is a must. Prather used to make a nice one but it has been out of production for a number of years. They still pop up for sale on EBAY, RCU and Ezone occasionally.You can also carefully mark each blade in 1/4" or so increments to make "stations" and plot them manually. I've done it both ways and both work fine, bit the guage is MUCH easier.

With APC and woodys', the simplest way is to cut down a larger prop for more pitch. Since the pitch is helical in nature and follows a progressively curved path, when you cut it down the pitch increases towards the hub. I do this frequently. I requires a bunch of rework however to bring the blade profile back to original or close to it.

Another way is to sand in more pitch. Since the blades are usually pretty thick, you can sand the leading edge further up and the trailing edge further down. I'll do this when I can't find a suitable larger prop to cut down or I really like the way the prop I'm starting performs. This technique is more for adding small amounts of pitch to an already good working prop though.

If you have a prop you would like to twist, use a bucket of HOT water. Not boiling but as hot as you can stand it. Drop the prop in and let it heat for a minute of two. Then grab the hub and twist from the shank. This will ensure the whole blade twists and stays even and just not one local portion gets twisted. This is important because it can create an area of the prop that may stall, while another area may work fine. This makes the whole prop less effecient.

Not quite yet.  Some interesting things for sure....

There have been reports of something ominous rumbling in the air. Strange noises and a rythmic pulsing have generated some rasied eyebrows and melted stopwatches. Time will tell........

The motor mount worked well. It was definately quieter, but I'm not sure about power. Sometimes a soft mount will actually reduce power. I didn't tach it after the mod.I did it as you pointed out to make it easier for thrust angle changes. I don't have the plane any more or pics, but if I do it on the Rear Bear I will take some.

I'm thinking a stiffer pushrod may be in order.